You won’t believe this cave-town in southern Italy is real
I can still remember the first time I ever saw a picture of this magnificent UNESCO site in Italy. The first question that came to mind was: “How can I go there?”.
What’s even more interesting than the appearance of this town in Southern Italy is its rich history. Matera is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, ranking third after Aleppo and Jericho. It has a history of settlement going back more than 9,000 years, with evidence of human presence as far back as the Palaeolithic era.
And today, you can easily plan a day trip from Bari to Matera when you’re visiting Puglia. Or, better yet, you can spend the night on your way from one Italian coast to the other (Puglia to the Amalfi Coast, or the other way around).
Here are a few fun facts that will make you want to visit Matera, plus unmissable sites in the Citta dei Sassi (town of stone).
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Matera – La Citta dei Sassi
Unlike what many people think, Matera is not located in Puglia, but in Basilicata. However, because of its location close enough to Apuglia, it is easily reached from places like Bari or even Alberobello.
We visited the Sassi di Matera on several occasions and fell in love with this unique place. I’m sure you will love it as much as we did.
A few fun facts about Matera
The city’s old town, also known as the Sassi di Matera, became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993.
Also, did you know that the James Bond film No Time to Die was filmed in multiple locations throughout Matera? Filming locations include Piazza Vittorio Veneto, Piazza San Giovanni, the Sasso Caveoso, and Via Muro.
If you’re not a James Bond fan, maybe you’ll be interested to know that Mel Gibson chose it as the setting for his 2004 film “The Passion of the Christ”.
Moreover, in 2019, Matera was the ‘European Capital of Culture’. That made the somewhat-forgotten Italian town more popular with Italians and foreigners alike.
The city is also famous for its cave dwellings. However, the Sassi and the Park of the Rupestrian Churches of Matera are two different things. And they are both unmissable attractions in the old town.
The site was first inhabited between the Paleolithic and Neolithic periods. From the 8th century onward, people began using the natural caves more extensively. Around this time, the city expanded beyond its Roman-era defensive walls, which surrounded the original settlement known as Civita – the first inhabited area.
However, the city wasn’t always so beautiful. After the 1800s, the town’s ancient cave dwellings fell into terrible conditions. They became dark, unsanitary spaces where families lived alongside barnyard animals — with chickens even wandering across dining tables. Disease spread rapidly, and infant mortality soared due to malaria, trachoma, and dysentery.
The top unmissable attractions in today’s Matera
Before we talk about what’s there to see and do in Matera, I must warn you about two facts.
First, bring walking shoes. There are many stairs and you’ll need to climb a lot in the old town center. Moreover, the stone can be slippery, so make sure your shoes have soles that are suitable for this terrain.
Secondly, it gets hot during the summer. Even during our most recent visit in April, temperatures were already high. Thus, bring lots of water and a hat.
The most important attractions in Matera are located in the two central districts: Sassi Barisano and Sassi Caveoso.
If you spend the night, you should definitely stay in a cave house. Enjoy breakfast on the terrace with the breathtaking view, and get ready to explore the city on foot. But you can also go on a bus tour if you have mobility issues.
Discover one of the many viewpoints offering the best view over the city. Belvedere di Piazza Giovanni Pascoli, Piazza San Pietro Caveoso, or Belvedere Luigi Guerricchio detto dei “Tre Archi” are only a few of the most important ones.
Of course, you should not miss the cave churches, with the most famous one being the Santa Maria di Idris.
If you feel more adventurous, wander to the edge of the town and discover the Sasso Caveoso. These are deserted cave houses that offer you a glimpse into the past.
Art lovers will enjoy a visit to the MUSMA (Museum of Contemporary Sculpture). And anyone curious about the past should set foot into the Casa Grotta (cave house).
The best way to experience the town and also learn about its vast history is, of course, on a walking tour.
How to get to Matera
Getting to Matera is easy from Bari, Lecce, Alberobello, or even from Salerno or Naples.
From Bari
By train: Take the Ferrovie Appulo Lucane (FAL) train from Bari Centrale FAL station (separate from the main Trenitalia platforms). It takes about 1 hour 30 minutes to reach Matera Centrale.
By car: Drive along SS96 and SS99 — about 65 km and 1 hour.
By bus: Several companies like Miccolis or FlixBus run direct routes in roughly 1 hour 15 minutes.
From Lecce
By train: Take a Trenitalia train to Bari Centrale, then transfer to the FAL train to Matera. Total travel time is around 4–5 hours.
By car: Drive via SS16 to Bari and then SS96/SS99 toward Matera. It’s about 200 km and 2.5–3 hours total.
From Alberobello
By train: FAL trains connect Alberobello and Matera, but you’ll usually need to change at Altamura. Expect about 2.5 hours of travel.
By car: Take SP106 and SS99, about 70 km or 1.5 hours. It’s a scenic drive through the countryside.
From Salerno
By train + bus: Take a Trenitalia train to Bari (around 3.5 hours) and then switch to a FAL train or bus to Matera (another 1.5 hours).
By car: Drive via E847 and SS407 Basentana, about 180 km and 2.5–3 hours.
From Naples
By train + bus: Take a Trenitalia or Italo train to Bari Centrale (around 3 hours), then continue by FAL train to Matera (1.5 hours).
By car: The fastest route is via A16 and SS655, roughly 250 km and 3.5 hours.
By direct bus: Companies like Miccolis and MarinoBus run direct Naples–Matera routes, taking around 4 hours.
